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Art Quilting: a Fine Art That Blends Tradition and Innovation

August 2024 | Art Quilting
by Marilyn Heywood Paige

Illustration

In the world of textile arts, art quilting has continued to emerge as a dynamic medium that blends centuries-old traditions with cutting-edge fiber arts innovation. I sat down with Lilo Bowman, the president of the Studio Art Quilt Associates (SAQA) and editor-in-chief of The Quilt Show to discuss what she sees as the most captivating trends, the cultural influences, and the challenges faced by artists of this vibrant art form.

Understanding Art Quilting

Lilo laid the groundwork for our discussion by explaining what art quilting is and is not. She explained, “our primary goal (SAQA) is to encourage people to recognize art quilting as a form of fine art. Like painting, sculpture, and photography, art quilting requires a deep understanding of the medium, mastery of design principles, and years of practice to create pieces that are visually striking and thought-provoking."
She explained that art quilts are not intended to serve as functional bed coverings but rather as pieces of art meant for display. They go beyond conventional quilting standards, with some artists creating three-dimensional works or incorporating unexpected elements like wire. Lilo emphasized that the discipline and dedication required for art quilting is on par with other fine art forms.

Embracing the Unconventional

As quilters continue to innovate, it is exciting to see how unconventional materials are finding their way into quilts. Lilo explained this intriguing trend, which reminded me of fashion’s use of unexpected, sustainable sources like hemp, pineapple, coffee, and bananas. It is part of the larger fashion trend of upcycling and sustainability.
Similar to the way fashion has been pushing boundaries by creating more sustainable fabrics from unconventional sources, fiber artists are exploring the use unusual elements in art quilts. Lilo mentioned that, “Laminates, plastics, metal, and paper are finding their way into quilts.” (Lilo herself is making a quilt that incorporates her grandmother’s recipes.) This fresh approach is redefining quilting and adding additional dimensions to the traditional quilt. Art quilters are experimenting with materials, textures, designs, layers, and colors. 

Illustration

Claire Passmore - Southern Right Whale: Deep Dive

Art Quilter's Cultural Influences

Lilo continued, asserting that the cultural background, regional inspirations, and choice of materials all contribute to the diverse voices and styles seen in art quilting across the globe. Contemporary quilts have moved beyond a single American quilting tradition and reflect the unique perspectives and stories of the artists creating them.
She mentioned contemporary folk artist, author and quilter, Sue Spargo, who has popularized the use of wool and intricate stitchwork which has inspired quilters to incorporate other types of needlework into their designs. Spargo uses her cultural influences to inform her design. “Sue Spargo’s unique folk-art imagery reflects her multicultural background and her fascination with folk art from around the world. Her inspiration comes from memories of her childhood in South Africa with its distinctive environment and animals and her subsequent time in the green meadows of southern England” (International Quilt Museum).
Spargo is far from alone in this. Lilo discussed the Japanese tradition of quilting, stating, “In Japan, quilting is taught through years of study with a single teacher to learn specific techniques and style of that individual.” Mutsuko Yawatagaki, one of Japan’s leading quilters, “works almost exclusively with fabric salvaged from antique kimono and obi that are themselves works of art. Her themes are familiar ones from Japanese art, including dragons, flowers of the seasons, and Mt. Fuji,” (Okan Arts).
Similarly, a range of cultures influence the work of Russian quilt artist Galla Grotto. Her art quilts include inspiration from ancient Chinese texts and mythologies of various cultures. Her work beautifully demonstrates the global reach and cultural diversity of art quilting.

Art Quilting's Diverse Voices

These cultural influences not only add depth and richness to the art form but also serve as a platform for quilters to express their unique perspectives and stories. Just as traditional quilters used their craft to communicate messages and emotions, contemporary quilters are embracing the medium as a means of cultural commentary and self-expression. 
“For African Americans, the practice of quilting not only preserves memory through the use of repurposed fabrics, but also plays a vital role in protest, as artists have used—and continue to use—the medium to assert their voice to claim identity, tackle racism, and confront sexism. Practitioners of textile arts fuse material and message in expressions of freedom and liberation. This contemporary application of the craft has historical antecedents in the American South. As a tool used for clandestine communication, quilts contained secret symbols that guided the enslaved to freedom through the Underground Railroad. The symbology contained in these quilts also harks back to African imagery, including the Kongolese cosmogram, a symbol that represents birth, life, death, and rebirth. For many enslaved people, these linkages to African roots became essential ties to home and identity that resisted erasure during slavery” (Art News).

Other Cutting-Edge Fiber Artists & Art Quilters

Promoting Art Quilting as a Fine Art

One of Lilo’s primary challenges as president of SAQA is the perception that quilts are functional items for the bed rather than works of art meant for display. SAQA has been at the forefront of addressing this perception for over 35 years.
SAQA has spearheaded innovative exhibitions in non-traditional venues to “meet people where they are and show art quilts in other venues, rather than just traditional quilt venues.” They want to educate people about the skill, dedication, and design principles involved in creating these fine works of art. 
One such exhibition at the Detroit Zoo in Royal Oak, Michigan. Lilo enthused, “It was one of their most popular events. Nothing like they’d ever had before. It was so popular, and the public loved it. The quilts featured lots of animals and it was called ‘Fur, Fangs, Feathers and Fins’. The zoo was so pleased with it that they want SAQA to do another exhibition.”

Illustration

Sue Sherman - Galápagos Marine Iguana

Southern Right Whale: Deep Dive by Claire Passmore on display at Fur, Fangs, Fins & Feathers exhibit at the Detroit Zoo.

In another education initiative, SAQA collaborated with other fiber organizations and created “Textile Talks“ which feature weekly presentations and panel discussions from the International Quilt Museum, Quilt Alliance, Studio Art Quilt Associates, and Surface Design Association. They hold the hour-long programs online every Wednesday at 2 p.m. EST.
SAQA has also cleverly leveraged the public's interest in AI to partner with Louisiana State University in creating an art quilt exhibition, AI: Artistic Interpretations. Call for entry began in April and continues through April 30, 2025. From the SAQA website: “AI: Artistic Interpretations unites the creativity of fiber artists from across the globe with the algorithms, data, and machine learning of Artificial Intelligence. This exhibition will showcase the boundless creativity that emerges when human artistry combines with the potential of technology. Use artificial intelligence as a tool in your artwork or express your response to it.”
Unlike other art quilt shows, this one will be juried by the LSU museum’s curator and two computer scientists.

Technology in Quilting: Approaching AI With Caution

Integrating technology and the use of AI have also become topics of discussion in the art quilting community. While AI can be beneficial for research and inspiration, it is important to safeguard the artist’s distinctiveness and prevent copyright violations.
Lilo Bowman stresses that using AI as a tool, rather than relying on it to generate artwork helps to preserve an artist’s original content. Quilters must strike a delicate balance, leveraging the capabilities of AI while ensuring that their work remains a genuine expression of their artistic vision.

Blending Tradition and Innovation in Quilting

At the heart of the quilting movement is the seamless blending of tradition and innovation. Whether it’s the incorporation of unconventional materials, exploring diverse cultural influences, or the thoughtful integration of technology, art quilters are pushing the boundaries of their craft and redefining the perceptions of quilting as a fine art form.
Thanks to individuals such as Lilo Bowman and organizations like SAQA, as well as the dedication of individual artists, the art quilting community continues to grow and strengthen. Art quilting offers a rich tapestry of creative expression that celebrates the past while embracing the future.

References

AI: Artistic Interpretations (SAQA Global) - Call for entry | SAQA - Studio Art Quilt Associates. (2025, April 1). https://www.saqa.com/events/ai-artistic-interpretations-saqa-global-call-entry
Belyea, P. (2021, May 3). Izumo Museum of Quilt Art. Okan Arts. https://okanarts.com/blogs/blog/izumo-museum-quilt-art
CreateWhimsy. (n.d.). Spotlight: Galla Grotto , Textile Artist. Create Whimsy. Retrieved August 30, 2024, from https://createwhimsy.com/projects/spotlight-galla-grotto-textile-artist/
Detroit Zoo. (2024, August 6). Fur, fangs, feathers and fins - Detroit Zoo. https://detroitzoo.org/attraction/art-exhibitions/
Gordon, B. (2023, February 6). The Push-Pull of Doilies: revered, reviled, and reconceived. PieceWork. https://pieceworkmagazine.com/push-pull-doily/
Little, C. (2022, November 23). For generations, African American women have used quilting as a powerful tool of survival, resistance, and artistic expression. ARTnews.com. https://www.artnews.com/list/art-news/artists/contemporary-textile-quilting-artists-to-know-1234647693/faith-ringgold/
Preuss, S. (2021, March 9). 6 sustainable textile innovations that will change the fashion industry. FashionUnited. https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/6-sustainable-textile-innovations-that-will-change-the-fashion-industry/2017100926194
Sue Spargo: A Journey in Quilting | International Quilt Museum - Lincoln, NE. (n.d.). https://www.internationalquiltmuseum.org/exhibition/sue-spargo-journey-quiltingTeam, S. (2024, July 29). Upcycled Fashion Trends for 2024: What's In and Out? SwagCycle. https://www.swagcycle.net/upcycled-fashion-trends-for-2024-whats-in-and-whats-out/
Textile Art by Mutsuko Yawatagaki | FCCJ. (n.d.). https://www.fccj.or.jp/index.php/number-1-shimbun-article/textile-art-mutsuko-yawatagaki
Textile Talks | SAQA - Studio Art Quilt Associates. (n.d.). https://www.saqa.com/resources/textiletalks
Thompson, S. (n.d.). Exhibits | TextileFusion. Retrieved August 30, 2024, from https://textilefusion.com/exhibits/
Weisenburger, C. (2023, January 4). Turning My Grandmother’s Doilies into Quilts. PieceWork. https://pieceworkmagazine.com/turning-my-grandmothers-doilies-into-quilts/

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